Fernando de Noronha to Tobago

22 February - 5 March 2003



 

We made it! We have finally arrived in the Caribbean, after completing our trans-Atlantic crossing after a record run from Fernando de Noronha.

We weighed anchor from Fernando at sunset on the 22nd February, bid a fond farewell to this gem of a place, and headed for the Caribbean. For the first few days we were 'scratching' for wind, putting the sails up, bringing the sails down again. Plenty of motoring and motor-sailing, looking for wind.

Well we wanted wind, and we sure found it. Lots of it! We finally picked up the north-easterly trade winds as we headed for the Equator, leaving the Inter-Tropical Convergence Zone behind us. Initially blowing a steady force 4, but the wind soon strengthened to force 6, gusting to over 30 knots in some of the accompanying squalls. With an ideal beam reach, and up to 3+ knots of current, we've were smokin' along the rest of the way, clocking speeds of up to 11+ knots over the ground. We even had the odd chance to surf the swells, reaching boat speeds (over the water) of 12+ knots. We've set some amazing new records for Inspiration, including a new best daily run of 225 nautical miles. Now that's exciting sailing!


Leaving the ITCZ behind us ...
... as the sun sets on the South Atlantic

The north-easterlies brought with them a whole new set of sea conditions to deal with. Gone were the relaxed sailing conditions of the South Atlantic that we had enjoyed all the way to the Equator. We now had the North Atlantic swell rolling in from the north-east, straight onto our starboard beam. And most of the time there's a secondary swell to add confusion to an already lumpy sea. The force of the combined swells pounds away at the hulls with no respite. Swells break against the hull or over the yacht, pouring water down any open hatches, and a nasty dousing for the folk below. The waves often break into the cockpit area, drenching everything and everyone in sight! So we've had to fasten down all the hatches, and sacrifice the beautiful fresh breeze we were able to enjoy previously. It's not easy to get much sleep in these conditions, hurtling along like on a runaway rollercoaster, while the Atlantic swells hammer away endlessly on the hulls.


If the rain don't get you ...
... the waves sure will!

The morning after - drying out the saloon
Even the big ships are pitching and rolling

We've had our fair share of squalls, often accompanied by heavy rain, sometimes for several hours on end. The foul weather gear has been put to good use.


Weathering the squalls
Musto man

The squalls are usually welcome, bringing with them a generous supply of fresh water, and a chance for a decent shower. Or even just gathering the runoff water to rinse off our salty clothes.



We reached the Equator at 06:00 on the morning of 27 February (Thursday). King Neptune pitched up on time with a rare bottle of Ambeloui champagne to celebrate the crossing.


Crossing the Equator
A bottle of Ambeloui from King Neptune!

Not only were the wind gods kind to us, but Neptune was also very kind in sending us some playful schools of dolphins a couple of times. We have had spectacular visits from performing schools of dolphins, that love to come and surf the bow waves. The best was a school of a few hundred dolphins, some of which played around us for over an hour and a half. We were entertained by the most amazing aquatic display, with these dolphins specialising in barrel rolls through the air. First prize went to the dolphin that managed four barrel rolls in a single jump out of the water!



Jonathan's mates have been visiting in even bigger numbers than before. One night we had six additional passengers!


Jonathan's mates
Flipper's mates

Unfortunately there are no fishing tales to tell, as we've been sailing too fast to catch any fish! Thanks to an excellent range of recipes on board, Barry and Peter managed to produce some delicious home baked bread. Barry also entertained us with an unusual way of cooking boerewors in the oven, which had Alan dashing for the fire extinguisher!


Barry's beer bread


Pete's nutty loaf

Boerewors flambé!
Progress from the girlie mags
We cruised into Rockly Bay in Tobago at midday on the 5th March, and so completed our crossing of the Atlantic, and the first part of the Voyage of Inspiration.


The final sunset of the Atlantic crossing
Arriving in Scarborough, Tobago
Tobago marks the start of the Caribbean Cruise, and a whole new chapter of exciting tales as we explore this beautiful area on Inspiration. Check out this website often to follow our travels through the Caribbean.